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Shown below are details on the chip budding process.
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| 1. The bud sticks used are current years growth and must be firm, mature and bearing plump healthy buds All the leaves are removed from the budstick. The budstick is then held with the base towards the budder and an area of the budstick selected which is similar in thickness to the rootstock. The knife is moved above the bud and a slice steadily cut below the bud. | ||
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| 2. The knife is then removed and placed approximately 20mm below the bud and inserted at an angle of 20-30 degrees until reaching the first cut. | 3. The bud chip is then removed. | |
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| 4. The straightest section of the stock is selected and, at the required height, the budding knife is inserted at an angle of 20-30 degrees. | 5. The knife is then positioned above the first cut at a distance the length of the chip. With the knife kept at the same angle, a cut is made inwards to nearly the same depth as the first cut, and then the knife is moved downwards to meet the first cut. The waste bit of wood is then removed. | |
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| 6. The cut in the root stock is checked to ensure that it is clean and cut to the correct length. The chip is then placed in the cut so that the lip holds it in place. | 7. If the chip overlaps the rootstock bark the excess bark is cut away by laying the knife flat on the chip and running it upwards until it just slips off and then make the further cut to remove the excess. If this action is not taken, this would become a weak point on the union later in life. | |
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| 8. Finished result, ready to be tied. | 9. The tape is wrapped around the stock starting below the bud. | |
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| 10. The wrapping of the tape around the step is continued, ensuring edges overlap and working up the stem until meeting the bud. Here a small window is left for the prominent-type buds. The process is continued up the stem until all the surfaces are covered. | ||